When discussing textiles, especially woven fabrics, two key terms often come up: reed and pick. These terms are crucial for understanding the fabric’s structure and quality. Let’s break down what they mean and then explore how similar concepts apply to knitted fabrics.
Reed in Woven Fabrics
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Reed refers to the number of warp threads per inch of fabric.
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Warp threads run lengthwise on a loom, parallel to the fabric’s edge.
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The reed is a comb-like part of the loom that keeps these warp threads evenly spaced and guides them during weaving.
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A higher reed count means more warp threads per inch, resulting in a finer and denser fabric.
Pick in Woven Fabrics
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Pick refers to the number of weft threads per inch of fabric.
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Weft threads run crosswise and interweave with warp threads.
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The pick count, or picks per inch (PPI), indicates the density of the weft threads.
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A higher pick count means more weft threads per inch, contributing to the fabric’s tightness and durability.
Together, the reed and pick counts determine the fabric’s texture, strength, and appearance. For instance, a fabric with high reed and pick counts will be finer and more tightly woven, while a fabric with lower counts will be looser and more open.
Summary of Differences
- Woven Fabrics:
- Reed: Number of warp threads per inch.
- Pick: Number of weft threads per inch.
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Understanding Fabric Density in Knitted Fabrics
While “reed” and “pick” are specific to woven fabrics, knitted fabrics have equivalent terms that describe their structure and density.
Gauge in Knitted Fabrics
- Gauge is similar to the reed in woven fabrics. It refers to the number of needles per inch in a knitting machine.
- A higher gauge means more needles per inch, resulting in a finer, more tightly knit fabric.
- For example, a 12-gauge fabric is finer than a 6-gauge fabric.
Courses and Wales in Knitted Fabrics
- Courses are the rows of loops that run horizontally across the fabric, similar to the weft threads in woven fabrics.
- The number of courses per inch indicates the density of these horizontal loops.
- Wales are the vertical columns of loops in the fabric, similar to the warp threads in woven fabrics.
- The number of wales per inch indicates the density of these vertical loops.
Together, the gauge, courses, and wales determine the overall density, texture, and appearance of the knitted fabric.